The South West Coast Path between St Ives and Zennor is one of Cornwall’s most rewarding half-day walks. It covers roughly 6.5 miles (10.5 km) of rugged granite coastline, with around 1,200 feet of cumulative ascent. Allow three to four hours if you want to linger at viewpoints, longer if you carry a camera or a flask. The path is waymarked with the acorn symbol, but the going is rough: steep steps, loose stones, and exposed edges. Sturdy boots, a windproof layer, and at least a litre of water are essential. The walk is graded moderate, though the constant ups and downs make it feel harder than the distance suggests.
Begin at Porthmeor Beach, where the Atlantic rolls in and surfers wait for sets. Turn west and climb the granite steps towards Clodgy Point. Look back for a classic view of St Ives: the harbour, the squat lantern of the pier, and the whitewashed cottages stacked above the sand. This town was built on pilchards and tin, and the old net lofts and fish cellars still stand. Traditional crafts here included net making, fish jigging, and the knitting of heavy ganseys for fishermen. As you round Clodgy Point, the path narrows. Fulmars nest on the cliffs, and grey seals often haul out on the rocks below. The going is boulder-strewn, so watch your footing.
Between Clodgy and Zennor Head, the path crosses the old St Ives Mining District. Tin streaming began here in the medieval period, and by the 19th century deep shafts reached far beneath the sea. You will pass low granite walls, capped shafts, and the moss-covered foundations of engine houses. These were once part of small mines worked for tin and copper. The industry shaped the landscape and the people. Bal maidens, often young women, crushed and dressed ore at the surface. Cornish miners, known as Cousin Jacks, took their hard-rock skills across the world. Look for the distinctive whim engine beds and the shallow adits that drain into the sea. Do not enter any shafts or buildings; they are dangerous and often unstable.
The middle section of the walk is wild and beautiful. You pass above hidden coves such as Pendour Cove, where the Mermaid of Zennor is said to have lured a young chorister into the sea. The cliffs are a patchwork of granite, heather, and spring squill. Choughs have returned to this coast, so listen for their ringing calls. Peregrines and kestrels hunt along the updraughts. In early summer, the path is lined with foxgloves and sea campion. The views sweep from St Ives Bay to the granite bulk of Zennor Head. Take your time. This is not a race. The path can be muddy after rain, and some sections are narrow with steep drops.
Arriving at Zennor, you earn your reward. The village is a cluster of granite cottages, a church, and a pub. Inside the church, look for the famous mermaid bench, carved in the 16th century. Traditional crafts still matter here: Cornish hedging, dry-stone walling, and hand knitting have been revived by local makers. The village museum, though small, holds mining tools, domestic utensils, and examples of straw plaiting and lace. If you have energy left, walk up to Zennor Quoit, a Neolithic burial chamber with views back to the coast. Otherwise, settle into a bench and watch the light change over the moor.
Spring and early autumn are the best seasons. Summer can be hot and crowded, while winter brings short days and slippery granite. A seasonal bus service links Zennor and St Ives, but check times before you set out; the last bus can be early. Alternatively, arrange a lift or walk back if you are feeling strong. Carry a detailed local map and a fully charged phone. Mobile signal is patchy. Tell someone your plans. Dogs are welcome but must be kept under control near livestock and cliffs. Finally, leave no trace: take all litter home, close gates, and respect the working farms you pass.
The Tinners shares practical, down-to-earth guidance on cornish heritage, tin mining history and traditional crafts for readers across the UK.
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